Vologda

Vologda is a city in Russia. Vologda takes its name from the Vologda River, which flows through the city. Its name means "the pure one" in the language of indigenous Finno-Ugric population. Vologda was first mentioned in Novgorod chronicles for 1147, when Saint Gerasim found a church and village already standing there. Surrounded by impassable woods, the settlement was inhabited by Novgorodians who pulled the ships from a tributary of the Volga to a tributary of the Northern Dvina, thus making possible navigation from the White Sea to the Caspian. Vologda is known all over Russia for its cheese and butter, reputedly the best in Russia. There is also a small museum of Peter the Great.

Vologda was first referenced in 1147. It was once part of the Novgorod sphere of influence until the Finns brought it into the fold of its closer neighbor, Moscow. In the region are many beautiful monasteries, museums, and at the center of town is the Archbishop's courtyard, a stone castle–like fortress dating back over 300 years.

One of the most famous and notorious residents of Vologda was none other than Josef Stalin. He actually lived here on three different occasions, and none of them were his choice. Vologda was used by the Czars as a place of internal exile for undesirables in the early 20th century. Several embassies relocated to Vologda temporarily after the Brest Treaty was established in 1918, refusing to recognize the Soviet Government (and subsequently the capital city of Moscow) and in disagreement with Russia's separate peace treaty with Germany.

Vologda is known in Russia for the dairy industry, and in particular "Vologda butter" see high and constant demand. Perhaps more interesting from the perspective of a visitor is Vologda lace, which has won deserved fame and worldwide recognition for its high artistic value, rich ornamentation, and excellent workmanship. The earliest laces which have reached us date back to the 17th century. The lace woven from golden and silver threads decorated rich civilian and church garments and was mostly used by the nobility. Another handicraft of the Vologdians is wood carving, and this is visible in the window casings and porches in local homes.

Sightseeing in Vologda.
One of the most attractive sights in the centre is Kremlyovskaya Square and Sophiysky Cathedral. You can climb the bell tower (for about $1.5 fee) to watch the city from the highest point of about 80 meters. Another well-known place to visit is Spassko-Prilutsky Monastery, which is in Priluki district just beside Vologda (20-30 minutes' way).
Vologodians honour their heroes so there is a lot of monuments dedicated to the memory either of the fallen in the war or the prominent Russians the Vologda land gave birth to. Check out Revolutsy Square for the so-called "tooth" which is a very popular place among local youths, where they gather to go rolling or skating, walk around or just have a beer. The "tooth" is a monument with memorial text on it; it resembles a tooth indeed in a way. All the ceremonies and holidays take place here as well turning the square to an overcrowded area. Near the memorial is the Eternal Fire that is burning days and nights unceasingly.
Another great entertainment is taking a river tour along the Vologda River to enjoy the picturesque views of Vologda to live music. The ticket costs 200 rubles, departures are at 12:00, 15:00, 18:00, 21:00 and 23:00 from the quay "Sobornaya Gorka" on Kremlyovskaya Square. On the same Kremlyovskaya Square you can pick up some souvenirs.

"Krasnyi Most" Gallery.
A picture gallery with 3 floors, entrance fee is 70 rubles (~$2,7).
Address: Naberezhnaya Shestoi Armi, #143. Tel: (8172) 54-79-27. Open hours: 10:00-18:00 (till 16:00 on Sundays), daily except Monday.

Vologda State Historical-Archeological Museum of Art.
Entrance: 30 rubles (~$1,2).
Address: Kremlyovskaya Square, #3. Tel: (8172) 72-14-33. Open hours: 10:00-17:00.

Vologda Restaurants and Cafes.
There are so many places to eat in the centre that, frankly, it's hard to find a place where you couldn't eat. Here is the description of some of the most popular and interesting places; they are all centrally located and not far from each other. Even if you don't like it for some reason or it's overcrowded it won't take more than two minutes to walk to another one.

Trapeza.
It's a small café mostly attended
and loved by students. A full dinner with the first and the second courses will cost about $4-6. They also offer a good choice of pizza starting from $5 to $10. Sometimes it might seem a bit dark and noisy inside because they have a big TV on. This café is recommended for having a short bite for low prices.
Address: Pushkinskaya St. #1. Open hours: 10:00-00:00 (till 23:00 at weekends) daily.

Mac Dak.
For those who prefer the
American style fast food. Many people enjoy the light and coloured atmosphere inside although not everybody likes this kind of food. Sometimes they even bring their own drinks and food concealed. Parents often come here with their children. Mak Dak offers a traditional choice: cheeseburgers, French fries, Coca-Cola, coffee, chicken nuggets and so on. On the whole, it is absolutely the same menu and service style as that of McDonalds that everybody knows.
Address: Mira St. #6. Open hours: 10:00-21:00 daily.

Ogorod.
Ogorod. This self-service restaurant is
very popular among the locals. It is situated in the very centre of Vologda and is very convenient to go to on a dinner break. Therefore it is always overcrowded at dinner time (from 12:00 till 14:00). The atmosphere inside might look too hasty, with a lot of people coming in and out. But in summer there is an open-air terrace in front of the restaurant, so it's much more comfortable to sit outside under the tent. A full dinner usually costs around $6-10; besides, there is a nice bar with soft cocktails and alcohol drinks.
Address: Pobedy Avenue, #10. Open hours: 8:00-23:00 daily.

Hausbrandt.
The waitresses are extremely
hospitable; a polite and kind treatment can be expected. It is situated in a street where there are only pedestrians and no cars so you can sit near the window and enjoy the quiet atmosphere with a cup of good Italian coffee watching people walk in the street. They have a nice choice of wines on the menu and keen wine expert who will willingly help you choose one. Hausbrandt is definitely one of the best places to eat out; credit cards are accepted.
Address: Address: Mira St., #9. Tel: (8172) 72-43-44. Open hours: 9:00-2:00 daily.

Kioto.
I found the Japanese restaurant Kioto totally amazing. The interior is so bright and relaxing,
with an aquarium in the wall and pretty waitresses dressed in traditional Japanese clothes walking past silently. Soft and charming music is played in the background. There is a VIP room with a Japanese movie on TV (if you like). You won't want to get back to the street. The menu with medium prices offers a lot of dishes so even those who don't like something very Japanese (sushi, for example) can find something similar to dishes from Russian or European cuisine. The chief in Kioto is Oleg Huan, he comes from Korea and is a professional cook. Sushi bar is at your service as well.
Address: Lermontova St., #19. Tel: (8172) 72-06-27. Open hours: 12:00-24:00 daily.

Spasskiy.
The restaurant Spasskiy is a part of a huge hotel complex so it is especially convenient for those staying in Spasskaya Hotel. The interior is very classical for a restaurant and it seemed to me a bit too formal. Round tables with clean white cloths and very neat waiters – all this is designed to resemble the European style or service. The menu is well composed, with big pictures of the dishes. Prices are normal for a restaurant of this level and definitely not the highest in Vologda. I think $20-25 per person would be enough for a dinner. When there are entertainment programmes on Fridays and Saturdays the entrance fee is 100 rubles (~$3,8).
Address: Oktyabrskaya St., #25. Tel: (8172) 726224. Open hours: 12:00-1:00 daily.

Going Out in Vologda.
In spite of being a small town, Vologda does not give way to bigger cities like Yaroslavl or Moscow in providing its people with everything they might need. Most of the restaurants, cafés, entertainment centers and shops are naturally concentrated in the centre but some good and popular club are sometimes a bit far off from the centre. Girls in Vologda in the whole northern region are very pretty, according to the opinion of those who come from the central part of Russia. Whenever they visit Vologda for the first time ones are surprised at the number of churches, others – at the beautiful and easy-going girls, while the thirds – at the level of service and prices. And of course, being the cultural centre, Vologda gives the best opportunity to go sightseeing.

Vintazh.
This place works as a restaurant (Mediterranean and Japanese cuisines)
and as a night club. It is stylized for the 60th, with brick walls and portraits of Elvis Presley and Merlin Monroe. The floor and the furniture are made of dark wood that highlights the vintage atmosphere. It's been opened recently but has already gained popularity among businessmen and elder people. It's also visited by young couples who want to spend a romantic evening together. Their menu is considered the most expensive in town but only here you can order octopus or lobster; the menu is made in both Russian and English. There is a bar, a sushi bar, a chill out balcony, a VIP room with its own bar and a scene. In the evening Vintazh turns into a night club that often hosts local dancers and music bands along with guest stars from Moscow or St-Petersburg. Parties usually last till the morning on Fridays and Saturdays. The entrance fee varies between 150 and 400 rubles (~$6-15) depending on who is giving a concert tonight. There is also often live music like jazz or blues.
Address: Pobedy Avenue, #10 (second floor). Tel: (8172) 79-50-56 (reserving tables). Open hours: 12:00-5:00.

Klyuch.
The night club Klyuch, according to the majority of the keen club-goers, is the only night club in Vologda. It means the rest of them are no competitors against Klyuch. True, it is one of the oldest clubs
and today is the most popular among young party men. And it's not without reason: Klyuch always hosts some famous DJs from other cities and the best rocking parties take place necessarily here. Besides, it's a part of the entertainment centre "Klyuch" which comprises also bars, bowling, Italian restaurant "Pinokkio" with an open terrace in summer, pools and other games, supermarket etc., and all this in one building. The entrance fee is usually less than in Vintazh. The club is situated in about 15 minutes' way from the centre.
Klyuch on the net: www.kluch-vologda.ru
Address: Leningradskaya St., #85. Tel: (8172) 53-78-48.

TNT.
Another popular nightclub located in the hotel complex Spasskiy. It's just a good place to spend a night dancing. The entrance is about 100-150 rubles in average (~$4-6).
Address: Oktyabrskaya St., #25. Tel: (8172) 79-00-50. Open hours: 20:00-6:00.