Odessa

Founded in 1794 by Katherine the Second with the purpose of establishing a mighty seaport, fortifying southern borders of the Russian Empire, Odessa has surpassed Her Majesty expectations. Soon Odessa has become one of the biggest and wealthiest cities of Russia. By European standards, Odessa is a young city. Odessa has quickly developed into a center of international trade, industry, and science. By its hundredth anniversary (1894), Odessa occupied the 4th place in the Russian Empire in size and economic power - after St. Petersburg, Moscow and Warsaw. The city suffered heavy damage during World War II, and many residents were killed by the occupying German and Romanian armies. The extraction of shell-limestone to construct those buildings resulted in Odessa's labyrinthine underground, from which partisans operated during World War II.
Nowadays, Odessa is home to 1.1 million people, and growing. Its development as a seacoast resort community has contributed to a population that has almost tripled over the last hundred years. A mild climate, plenty of beaches, and the Black Sea attract thousands of tourists to Odessa throughout the year, earning it the title of "Southern Palmira."Attracted by Porto Franco business conditions and benevolent climate, migrants and merchants from European and Asian countries, made a beautiful and prosperous home in Odessa. Since then the city was doomed to flourish, thanks to good business sense, positive and optimistic vision and sharp wit of its inhabitants. Neither bureaucrats, nor wars or famine, even Soviet regime, could not exterminate a special spirit of the city.

Nowadays it is one of the biggest cities and largest seaport of Ukraine. Odessa occupies territory of 160 sq. km. The climate is moderately continental and comparatively dry, with a short mild winter and long hot summer. There are more than 290 sunny days in the year. Winter is short and mild with an average temperature of around freezing point. Falling snow and temperatures below minus 10 Celsius are rare. Summer is long and hot with an average temperature of 25 Celsius. Temperatures above 35 Celsius are quite often. Since Odessa region is drawn out along the meridian, the climate in the narrow – 30-40 km. – stretch along the coast is practically ideal, with the soft tang of the sea mixing with the scent of the steppes.

Odessans are proud of their architectural and cultural heritage. Odessa has a university (est. 1865), an opera and ballet theater (1809), a historical museum (1825), a municipal library (1830), an astronomical observatory (1871), an opera house (1883–87), and a picture gallery (1898), other museums and theaters. Besides a university, students are attracted to several institutions of higher education in the city, including medical schools, a marine academy, and a music conservatory. Famous men such as Mechnikov (medicine), Bunin (writer), and Pushkin (poet) made their home here at one time or another. Local buildings were done up in a variety of styles ranging from Renaissance to Art Nouveau. Odessa possesses plenty of attractions - sites to see, fine arts, museums, stores, supermarkets, hotels, restaurants, casinos, etc. Here you can find information about them, together with other useful information about city particularities, transportation, driving, communications and emergency numbers.

What to see
DERIBASOVSKAYA STREET
Deribasovskaya Street is the heart of Old Odessa, with shops ranging from the government meat store to the Levis outlet. During fair weather, Deribasovskaya is the sight for the best people watching, especially if you stop at one of the numerous cafes with outdoor seating; but after September, the wise go indoors. The City Park (Gorsad) near Preobrazhenskaya Street boasts dozens of craftsmen, strollers and musicians.
POTEMKIN STEPS
Built in 1837 and site of the famous baby carriage scene in Eisenstein's "Battleship Potemkin," the Potemkin Steps are the best place in the city to view the bay and busy harbors. Walk along the yellow-bricked Primorskjj Boulevard and note monuments to Aleksander I, Soviet generals and a British frigate which grounded off shore during the Crimean War. At the bottom of the steps is the city's brand new passenger ship terminal and convention center.
At the Primorskij Boulevard’s west end note the (pre-revolutionary) governor's palace, which incidentally was heavily damaged in 1854 when the British and French bombarded it. Count Vorontsov built a Grecian collonade which overlooks the harbor and also provides a fine view of the bay.
Next to the palace is the Tyoschin Most, a foot bridge built over a gorge by a Communist functionary in the 1950s either so his mother-in-law could visit him more easily or so she would not have an excuse to stay overnight, depending on which version of the story you choose to believe. The bridge is a traditional sight where newly weeds have their pictures taken.
FRANTSUSKIJ BOULEVARD
Once home to Odessa's wealthy merchants, Frantsuskij Boulevard now is home to numerous sanitoria, but the cobblestones and acacia trees are most reminiscent of Old Odessa.
THE CATACOMB TRIP
More than 400 km of catacombs are buried beneath Odessa. Both partisans and smugglers have used them over the years, and the part of the catacombs which resistance fighters used in 1941 is open to the public. Located some 35 km outside of town, the partisan catacomb bus leaves (as of this writing) daily from the bus kiosk across Volzhynskij street from the train station at 10 a.m., except weekends. An easier way to find the bus is to ask at the information window in the train station The trip takes half a day and costs 5 hryvnas for the Russian-language version. The bus is not air-conditioned.
PRIVOZ FARMERS' MARKET
The Odessa Privoz is one of the biggest farmers' markets in the world and rivals those in lstanbul and Mexico City. As the saying goes, you can find anything up to and including nuclear devices at the Privoz, but a better description is everything that is edible and in season in the ClS, plus a whole lot more. Although lanes are devoted to construction materials, clothes and consumer goods, the Privoz is best shopped for food. Beware of pickpockets. Haggling is expected, but a lower-stress approach is to comparison shop.
THE BEACH
Odessa's beach, which actually is made up of several beaches running some 20 km or more, possesses a sea wall and small-scale eating and drinking establishments. During the summer, particularly the Lanzheron, Otrada and Delfin beaches are wall-to-wall people, but solitude seekers can find quiet by walking farther.
The cable car ride at the Otrada beach is fun and costs less than a hryvna. Besides sunbathing and swimming, you can rent paddle boats or rowboats usually for 2-3 hryvnas an hour. Arkadia beach is the largest and most developed. Check out the yacht club - open to the public - at the south end of Lanzheron beach where you can charter a boat with crew for $5-10 an hour. The best technique is to approach a likely-looking vessel and ask the young men how much they charge for their time. The steep hill dividing the beaches from the city is a green zone and usually closed to vehicle traffic. It is a favorite sight for picnics.
Odessa Particularities
In the central part of the city, with a few exceptions, the water does not run from 12 p.m. to 6 p.m. and midnight to 6 p.m. Due to the dumping of raw sewage, the seawater is not safe for swimming by any standard. This does not hinder thousands from diving in, of course, but avoiding the water is the safest bet.
Lack of funding combines with uneven concrete and cobblestones to make Odessa a tough place on shoes and suspensions (actually, as any other Ukrainian city). Bring a pair of sturdy walking shoes and fix your suspension as appropriate. Although the locals do it, walking more than 50 m in high heels on Odessa side walks risks a sprained ankle. Street and sidewalk drainage is poor and pedestrians are likely to get either muddy or dusty.
The winter average temperature hovers around freezing, and minus 10 Celcius is considered a cold day. In the summer daytime temperatures can get up to 35 Celcius, and either way humidity is high. Air conditioning is rare and during severe winters heating may not be adequate.
Women are not equal citizens. A woman walking alone at night in general will not be bothered. If she is, assailants are usually intoxicated, numerous and willing to violence. During dark hours try not to be outside alone.
Lighting can be bad, especially in apartment corridors and stairwells, which can be ink-black at midday. Carry a flashlight - it'll also help when you pay taxi fare when the driver's dome light doesn't work.

 
Shopping
State-owned and private stores in Odessa are divided, generally, into grocery stores, department stores and supermarkets which offer a variety of domestic and imported products.
When purchasing grocery products at state-owned stores, check their expiration dates and the labels in Ukrainian language which ensure the quality of the products.The stores in Odessa are open on Saturdays and are closed only on Sundays. The majority of stores have a lunch hour, which is usually either from 1 to 2 p.m. or from 2 to 3 p.m.
Stores
LEVIS
The Levis outlet.
Deribasovskaya 19.
Tel. 24-17-66.
REEBOK
The Reebock outlet.
Deribasovskaya 19.
Tel. 24-17-65.
PUMA
The Puma outlet.
Located on Deribasovskaya.
BENNETON
The Benneton outlet.
Deribasovskaya 19.
Tel. 22-16-98.
NAPOLEON
Men's clothing store.
Located on Deribasovskaya.
BRADLEY'S OF LONDON
British clothing, mostly for women.
Located on Deribasovskaya.
TTW DOM
German/East European construction materials and household supplies.
Krymskaya 72. Tel. 56-21-26.
Koroleva 44. Tel. 44-45-07.
Supermarkets
TROITSKY
Imported food from Scandinavia. Liquor, deli and coffee shop. Currency exchange. Visa accepted. Open 9 a.m. to 8 p.m.
Troitskaya 54.
Tel. 24-90-40.
TSENTRALNY
Standard selection of produce, meats, cold and frozen foods. Cash only. Open daily from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m.
Located on Preobrazhenskaya at the corner of Deribasovskaya.
FRUKTI I OVOSHCHI
With pan pizza takeout. Cash only. Open daily from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m.
Located on Deribasovskaya.
PRIVOZ
Produce, meats, dairy, vegetables. Cash only. Open daily except Monday, from 6 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Privoznay 14.
Tel. 22-41-79.
NOVY RYNOK
Produce, meats, dairy, vegetables. Also, one section offers construction materials and household supplies. Cash only. Open daily except Monday from 6 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Torgovaya 26.
Tel. 26-92-52.

Odessa Particularities
In the central part of the city, with a few exceptions, the water does not run from 12 p.m. to 6 p.m. and midnight to 6 p.m. Due to the dumping of raw sewage, the seawater is not safe for swimming by any standard. This does not hinder thousands from diving in, of course, but avoiding the water is the safest bet.
Lack of funding combines with uneven concrete and cobblestones to make Odessa a tough place on shoes and suspensions (actually, as any other Ukrainian city). Bring a pair of sturdy walking shoes and fix your suspension as appropriate. Although the locals do it, walking more than 50 m in high heels on Odessa side walks risks a sprained ankle. Street and sidewalk drainage is poor and pedestrians are likely to get either muddy or dusty.
The winter average temperature hovers around freezing, and minus 10 Celcius is considered a cold day. In the summer daytime temperatures can get up to 35 Celcius, and either way humidity is high. Air conditioning is rare and during severe winters heating may not be adequate.
Women are not equal citizens. A woman walking alone at night in general will not be bothered. If she is, assailants are usually intoxicated, numerous and willing to violence. During dark hours try not to be outside alone.
Lighting can be bad, especially in apartment corridors and stairwells, which can be ink-black at midday. Carry a flashlight - it'll also help when you pay taxi fare when the driver's dome light doesn't work.

Transport
Taxis
Private cars and taxis swarm the city streets. To hail a car, stand near the road and put your hand out and a car will stop. Private cars, meaning locals who have cars and sometimes act as taxi drivers, cost significantly less than taxis. Be wary of getting in a private car with more than one person already in it. Although this is the most common way besides public transport of getting a ride, be careful and use common sense. Most drivers do not follow many traffic laws and usually do not speak English. Set the price before getting in. Two hryvnas is the standard rate for a 5 to 10 minute trip within the inner city. For a 15 to 20 minute trip out to the suburbs four hryvnas should be sufficient.
Trolleys/Buses
A bus, trolley bus and tram system exists. These tend to be crammed tight with people, but are a cheap way to travel around Odessa. Service is slow and waits for vehicles are long. Prices range from free to 1 hryvna. You pay the driver on the way out of the vehicle.

 Driving
Driving in Odessa can be a hazardous experience, but understanding the rules of the road will be helpful to visitors who are both driving and riding.
If you plan to consume any alcohol, use public transport or designate a driver. Ukraine is a zero-tolerance country and punishment will be quickly levied on offenders. Do not expect the luxury of a breathalizer test. Traffic police will make the decision to charge you based only on the smell of your breath. DAI, the traffic police, are easily recognizable. They wear dark gray or blue uniforms and carry black and white batons with which they wave to order you to pull over. To avoid complications, it is recommended that you do so. If you are stopped for a minor violation and fined a minimal amount, it is easiest to pay on the spot, but be sure to ask for a receipt.
Most international driving rules apply in Odessa. However, beware that most locals fail to follow many driving laws. Officially, speed limits are set at 60 kph/37 mph in cities, 90 kph/56 mph in unpopulated areas, and 120 kph/72 mph on highways. At intersections, the vehicle on the right has the right of way. You cannot turn right on red lights. Observe lane designations carefully, it may be necessary to turn right and make a U-turn in order to turn left.
It is important to be on the lookout for tram tracks and unmarked construction, particularly at night. Be forewarned that street names are often hard to find from a car window. They are posted on buildings and spelled in Cyrillic, so it may be helpful to translate a map into Ukrainian before getting out on the road.
Parking in Odessa is as difficult as in any other European city. To insure the safety of your car, park in designated areas. State-owned parking lots are located all over the city and have varying price depending on the location of the lot.

Theatres
OPERA, BALLET THEATER
Adjacent ticket office. The building is attractive but the troupe does not qualify as world class. Chaikovskogo, 3.
Tel. 29-13-29.
MUSICAL COMEDY THEATER
Rock concerts, comedians and touring shows appear here. Quality varies. Call ahead to find out what's playing.
Panteleymonovskaya, 3.
Tel. 25-09-24.
RUSSIAN DRAMATIC THEATER
Russian-language. Good to excellent dramas and comedies, performers and stage personnel at times perform miracles on shoestring budgets. Beware, some plays are more avante-garde than entertaining. Grecheskaya, 28.
Tel. 22-72-50.
UKRAINIAN MUSIC AND DRAMA THEATER
Ukrainian language. State-sponsored cultural productions. The puppet theater is located here as well. Pastera, 15.
Tel. 23-55-66.
PHILARMONIC ORCHESTRA
Conducted by American Hobart Earle, the Odessa Philarmonic Orchestra is comparable to all but the very best European orchestras, and Earle is much more entertaining. A must-see if the orchestra is not touring abroad, so call ahead.
Bunina, 15.
Tel. 25-69-03.
CIRCUS
Don't go unless you're taking the kids. And if you don't like to watch underfed trained cats and dogs perform, avoid the circus altogether.
Koblevskaya, 25.
Tel. 22-19-73.

Museums
HISTORY
The best thing they have is Suvorov's sword. Some interesting pre-revolutionary exhibits.
Gavannaya 4.
MARITIME
Ship models, and yet more ship models.
Lanzheronovskaya 6.
Tel. 24-05-09.
ART MUSEUM
Pre-revolutionary portraiture. Some fairly impressive works, mostly by Serov.
Sofievskaya 5a.
Tel. 23-72-87.
WESTERN AND ORIENTAL ARTS
This is where they keep whatever was dug up before the revolution. It's not the British museum, but if you get the staff to open the secure room downstairs you can get much closer to Trojan War era artifacts than you ever thought possible.
Pushkinskaya 9.
Tel. 24-66-48.
Casinos
ELDORADO
Slot machines.
Ekaterininskaya 19.
Tel. 21-82-50.
RICHELIEU
Black Jack, roulette, baccarat and poker.
Pushkinskaya 13.
Tel. 22-09-86.
GABRIELLA
Primorskiy Bulvar 11.
Tel. 22-87-87.
 
WHERE TO EAT
Restaurants
Restaurants do not require reservations.
HOTEL SHIP SHEVCHENKO
Austrian chef and menu. Passenger Ship Terminal.
Tel. 25-62-21, 24-51-12.
LONDONSKAYA
Russian/ Ukrainian specialities. Primorskiy Boulevard 1.
Tel. 22-87-87.
KOBE. Japanese food and wine. Lanzheronovskaya 9. Located across the square from the Opera Theater.
Tel. 26-98-06. Credit cards accepted.
Web site http://www.kobe.viptop.ru/.
NEFERTITI
Middle Eastern cuisine.
Located at 39 Bunina St. next to OVIR.
Tel. 22-33-65, 26-59-83.
BOLOGNA
Italian and continental dishes.
6th Station Bolshogo Fontana.
Tel. 68-44-70.
CALlFORNIA BURGER
Burgers and schwarma.
Preobrazhenskaya 52.
NEVADA
Baked chicken and pork with barbeque sauce.
Kanatnaya 52.
DOKKA PIZZA
Pizza for dine-in or take-out.
Kanatnaya 54.
GALAKTIKA
Preobrazhenskaya 23.
Tel. 26-67-88.
HOLLYWOOD
Sadovaya 21.
Tel. 24-61-91.
TA-ODESSA
Russian style food and drinks.
Gogolya 4.
ETIIJD
Cafe menu.
Gogolya 23.
PASSAZH
Turkish coffee and dishes.
Second floor of the Passazh.
VORONTSOV
Jazz bar and cafe.
Deribasovskaya 13.
MICK O'NEIL'S
Irish bar with tap beer and pub food. All major credit cards accepted.
Deribasovskaya 52.
GULFSTREAM Russian cuisine.
Otrada Yacht Club.
Open in the summer only.
THE SHASHLYK PLACE BY THE UNIVERSITY
Shashlyk. Only in summer.
Go down Frantsuskij Boulevard with the university on the right, just past the university turn left.
PIKNIK CAFE
Bar and sandwich cafe. Visa accepted.
Ekaterininskaya 23.
Tel. 26-70-03.
PETER Russian cuisine. Cover charge for music.
Corner of Troitskaya and Ekaterininskaya.
Tel. 24-22-15.
PAO LO
Chinese dishes.
Intersection of Preobrazhenskaya and Malaya Arnautskaya.
GLORIA
Russian and European cuisine. Major credit cards accepted.
Located on the fourth floor of the Passenger Ship Terminal.
ITALIAN YARD
Hot pizza and Italian salads, Italian wine in barrels, parking.
Filatova St. 31.
Tel. 67-97-42.
PAN PASTA
European cuisine, self-service salad-bar, parking.
Generala Petrova St. 30.
Tel. 49-10-69. Cash only.
STEAK HOUSE
Texas cuisine, American wine in barrels; 16.00 - 19.00: discounts for lunch.
Deribasovskaya St. 20.
Tel. 28-77-75. Cash only.
PAN PIZZA
12 different kinds of pizza, parking.
Ekaterininskaya St. 45.
Tel. 21-74-27.
Cash only.